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KASHMIR
Dal Lake, Kashmir

Nestling in the lap of dazzling, snow-capped Himalayas, the Kashmir valley is a jewel in India's crown. An inspiration for art, music and poetry, Kashmir is also a honeymooners' paradise, a nature lover's wonderland and a shopper's dream come true. Two major Himalayan ranges, the Great Himalayan Range and the Pir Panjal, surround the landscape from the north and south respectively. They are the source of great rivers, which flow down into the valleys, forested with orchards and decorated by lily-laden lakes. Srinagar, the capital of the state of Jammu and Kashmir, stands by the river Jhelum that forms the lifeline of the Kashmir Valley.

The valley of Kashmir is unique in its surroundings, which offers breathtaking view of its varying topography. Nature has endowed Kashmir with exotic beauty, which is reflected in its picturesque landscapes, lush green forests of Chinar, Deodar and Pine trees, beautiful rivers and waterfalls, snow covered mountains and a range of flora and fauna. Infact, it abounds in many varieties of wildlife, which includes Bears, Leopards and Himalayan Chamois etc. The countless species of luxuriant vegetation too, attract lot of enthusiastic botanists. Kashmir also has a lot to offer to the artists, archaeologists, rock and mountain climbers and big game hunters who throng this place in large numbers. Besides this, it is an ideal place for holidaymakers as well as for people who seek tranquility and peace amidst natural surroundings. No wonder that, Kashmir is referred to as the ‘Switzerland of India.’

HISTORY

Kashmir, “The Paradise on Earth”, is a history in making. Kashmir has a glorious past, a painful present and an uncertain future. The history of Kashmir is well documented and there are ample reminders of the ancient inhabitants of this valley, still lying around in Kashmir. Mythological tradition has it that, the valley originally was a huge lake called “Satisar” [land of Goddess Sati, consort of Lord Shiva], and its waters were blocked near Varamulla [present town of Baramulla]. Modern geologists also confirm this myth as true. According to the oldest manuscript on Kashmir “Nilvat Puran”, in Satisar there lived a demon named Jalod Bowa who killed and devoured the people of this region. A great saint named Kashyap, heard about the havoc that this demon was wrecking and performed penance for a long time. He was blessed by god and was able to cut the mountain, near Varamulla. This made it possible for the Satisar Lake to be drained into the plains below, and the land of Kashmir appeared. The demon was killed and the grateful people named the valley as "Kashyap-mar" and "Kashyap Pura". Kashmir also implies "land desicated from water", as it is derived from two words viz., “ka” (water) and Shimeer (to desicate). Over the years it was ruled by different ruler including Ashoka the great who founded srinagar & spread buddhism in the kashmir region. It was from here that Buddhism travelled to Central Asia, Tibet, China etc over the ages. Then Kashmir came under attack from the Huns, who brought untold miseries to the people of Kashmir. The next notable dynasty was the KARKOTA dynasty (beginning of the 8th century). Huen Tsang, the famous Chinese pilgrim, visited Kashmir during the rule of the 1st Karkota ruler Durlabhvardhan. After the Karkota rule, Kashmir again fell upon bad days and it was in 855 - 56 A.D that Maharaja Avantivarman of the Utpal dynasty brought some semblance to the chaos that was reigning. From 1089 to 1101 A.D., King Harsha ruled Kashmir. His reign was however a story of lawlessness and misdeeds. During this period, Mongols invaded Kashmir and plundered the state extensively.

In 1579 the greatest of all the Mughal rulers Akbar, visited Kashmir and fell in love with it. Thus began a love affair which was to result in some of the most beautiful gardens and monuments that cannot be found anywhere in India. The Mughals aptly called Kashmir ‘Paradise on Earth’. Here they laid, with great love and care, Srinagar’s many formal waterfront gardens, now collectively known as the Mughal Gardens. Anecdotes of four and five centuries ago describe their love for these gardens, and the rivalries that centred around their ownership. They also patronized the development of art & craft among the people of Kashmir, leaving behind a heritage of exquisite artisanship among thes people and making the handicrafts of the land prized gifts all over the world. Shalimar and Nishat gardens built on the banks of Dal lake, were Jehangir's gift to the valley. Jehangir also laid down gardens at Achable and Verinag.

From 1752-1819, Afghan rulers controlled Kashmir for nearly 67 years. The Pathan rule can easily be called the darkest period of Kashmiri history. The valley was plundered and looted and the people were in a bad shape.

In 1819, 50,000 troops of the Maharaja invaded Kashmir and drove out the Pathans. Sikh rule lasted for 27 years. The fighting between the Sikhs and the Britishers lead to Kashmir being transferred to Maharaja Gulab Singh who belonged to the DOGRA CLAN. In fact Maharaja Gulab Singh was the only Indian ruler to have carved out a state from the ruins of the Sikh empire. India became independent on the 15th of August 1947 but Kashmir became the bone of contention between the newly formed countries of India and Pakistan. Kashmir at the time of India’s independence was a Muslim majority state ruled by a Hindu Maharaja. As the king was vascillating about which country to join, a Pakistani invasion prompted the king to seek help from India. Since then Kashmir has become the flash point between the two neighbors. As of now, India occupies 2/3rds of Kashmir. Further, in 1962, the Chinese invaded and occupied a part of Ladakh, increasing tensions in this area. The situation is still not normal as yet, but the people of Kashmir wait eagerly for peace to return.

PEOPLE AND CULTURE

Kashmir has a heterogeneous population of Muslims, Hindus, Sikhs and Dogras. Muslims form the majority here and almost all the Hindus have left the valley after the beginning of insurgency in 1989. The Hindus of Kashmir come of pure Aryan race and can be recognized by their sharp features, fair complexion, light colored hair and eyes. The people of Kashmir wear the traditional dress called PHIRAN, which is unisex and is worn by all sections of the society. Another identifying feature is the KANHGRI, which is a coal filled pot and is kept under the phiran to ward off the cold during the winter season.

Kashmiris are very hard working and intelligent and are known for their oratorial skills. They are skilled artisans and craftsmen whose work of art is appreciated around the world. The skilful artisans of Kashmir are renowned for a variety of items the world over. Embroidery with intricate designs and on exquisite materials like Pashmina silk and Shatoosh is very popular and in high demand among the tourists. Shawls, Namdar (Woven Carpets), Puttoo (Handloom tweed) etc, are exported. Woodcarvings on the wood of walnut tree is a speciality. The silk industry of Kashmir is one of the largest in the country. Another exquisite art is that of paper machie, and decorative items like Lampshades, Jewelry boxes etc are highly appreciated.

FACT FILE

Name Kashmir
Capital Srinagar
Best Season : March to October
Temperatures (Average) : 10 to 30° C. Low Temperatures in winter
Clothing : Light/Medium wollens in summers to Heavy wollens in winter
Rainfall: 529mm
Languages : Kashmiri, Urdu, Hindi & English.
Food: The staple diet of every Kashmiri is rice. Vegetables & meat are often combined and eaten. For e.g.- Mutton and turnips, chicken and spinach, fish and lotus root etc. The Himalayan valley of Kashmir is renowned all over the world for its delicious juicy fruits such as apples, cherries, plums, peaches, strawberries and various other fruits. The dry fruits of Kashmir like Walnuts, Almonds, Pine nuts or ‘Chilgoza’ and Apricots are also well known for their excellent quality.

KASHMIR ATTRACTIONS

Kashmir is a land where myriad holiday ideas are realised. In winter, when snow carpets the mountains, there is skiing, tobogganing, sledge-riding, etc. along the gentle slopes. In spring and summer, the honey-dewed orchards, rippling lakes and blue skies beckon every soul to sample the many delights the mountains and valleys have to offer. Golfing at 2,700 m above the sea, water-skiing in the lakes and angling for prized rainbow trout, or simply drifting down the willow fringed alleys of lakes in shikaras and living in gorgeous houseboats are some of the most favoured ones.

DAL LAKE - The fabled sweet water lake is one of the most well known tourist destinations of Kashmir. The lake is an intricate  waterway divided into three parts - Gagri bal, Lokut Dal and Bod Dal, by a series of causeways. It is the Jewel in the crown of the Kashmir and is eulogised by poets and praised abundantly by the tourists. The lake is 6.4 km long and 4 km wide. The Dal Lake is host to world famous Shikaras and Houseboats which vie with each other with eye catching names. Dal Lake changes its moods and scenery throught the day and after every few kilometers. It is lined with world famous Boulevard road.

Two small islands within the lake are popular picnic spots. Sona lank (silver island) and Rupa lank (gold island) which are also known as Char Chinar because they both have 4 Chinar trees on them. Tourists can enjoy Shikara rides, Kayaking and canoeing, Angling ( a license is required), or they can stay and experience Kashmiri hospitality aboard the numerous houseboats. A shikara cruise with snow capped mountains in the backdrop and through the luxuriant Mughal gardens, bring back the old splendor and show of “the Dal” in its most resplendent colors. Trek upto Shankarcharya through city forest area. Also shopping can be undertaken on the shopping mall at the Boulevcard road or you can simply cycle around the lake on Boulevard and observe the lake in its full grandeur.


MUGHAL GARDEN - There are numerous large and small gardens or "Baghs" scattered in and around Srinagar. With terraced lawns, cascading fountains, bright colourful flowerbeds with the panorama of the Dal in front of them - the three Mughal Gardens of Chesma shahi, Nishat and Shalimar are the Mughal Emperors' concept of paradise and are today very popular places for picnics and excursions.

  • SHALIMAR BAGH - The most beautiful of all the Mughal gardens, Shalimar Bagh Mughal Gardenwas built for Nur Jahan, by her husband Jehangir in 1616. The gardens are straight out of a fairy tale. The Garden has four terraces and is 539x182 meters and gets water from Harwan Lake through canal which is lined with around 150 fountains which dazzle with their display and electric lights add charm to the beautiful atmosphere. The top most of the four terraces called the “Abode of Love”, was reserved for the emperor and the ladies of court. The Garden blooms with innumerable varities of flowers in spring and autmn.
  • NISHAT BAGH (The garden of spring) -These magnificent gardens designed by Nur Jahan's brother Asaf Khan, were laid down in 1633 and are among the largest of the Mughal gardens. It is situated on the banks of world famous Dal-Lake in the backdrop of Zabarwan hills . This garden commands magnificient view of the lake. The Garden is Terraced with beautiful water channel flowing right in the middle, beautiful lawns, beautiful flowers and fountains. Nishat Garden lies in Srinagar district and it is 11 Kms from the dstrict headquarters. Shikara riding can be undertaken to Nehru Park from the Garden.
  • CHASMA SHAHI (The Royal Fountains) - Close to Srinagar is the smallest of the Mughal gardens. It is near the Oberoi Hotel. This garden is attributed to Shah Jahan and is set in beautiful surroundings. The cool water of the spring is highly refreshing and digestive.
  • PARI MAHAL (House of the Fairies) - Located just above the Chasma Shahi lie the ruins of this astronomical observatory built by Dara Shikho, a Mughal emperor and Aurangzeb’s elder brother. Pari Mahal offers a fine view of the Dal Lake and has beautiful terraced garden, which has been renovated in the recent past.
  • NASIM BAGH - Built by Akbar in 1586, these are the oldest of Kashmir’s Mughal gardens. It is a beautiful camping ground which is however restricted these days. This garden offers a splendid view of the Dal lake.

HARWAN LAKE - Harwan Lake is a clean and pure water lake, set among the mountains, with its dark green waters reflecting the lofty peaks of Mahadeo. The surrounding scenery is some of the best in valley. The water of Harwan lake is fed to huge garden lined with flower beds and massive Chinar trees  via a beautiful canal flowing right through the middle. There is not much clutter of fountains and other fancy things rather it has vast big green carpeted green lawns which form an ideal spot for picnics. This spot is very popular with the locals for picnics and excursions. It also seves as take off point for visiting Wild life sanctuary of Dachi Gam and starting point of climb upto Mahadev Mountain.

PAHALGAM - World famous hill station is 45 Kms. from the District Head Quarter  at Anantnag and located on  the banks of river Lidder at an altitude of 7200 ft. from sea level. Pahalgam is one among the five tehsils of Anantnag district and tehsil head quarters are located in the main town of Pahalgam.  Once a great tourist puller and favourite place for shooting of Bollywood films is perhaps the best health resort in the country. Pahalgam also serves as base camp for the famous Amarnath Ji Yatra More>>>
 
GulmargGULMARG - Gulmarg's -aka "meadow of flowers'- legendary beauty, prime location and proximity to Srinagar naturally make it one of the premier hill resorts in the country. It is located in the Baramulla district of Kashmir at an altitude of 2,730 m. Gulmarg is 56 km southwest from the capital city of Srinagar and is close to the Indo-Pakistan border. A huge cup-shaped lush green meadow, Gulmarg looks like something out of a fantasy, and in spring, the green meadows are dotted with colourful bluebells, daisies, forget-me-nots and
buttercups. More>>>

SHRINES AND MONUMENTS

Hazratbal MosqueHazratbal Mosque - Hazratbal Mosque is located in a village of the same name on the banks of the Dal. Its pristine white marble elegance is reflected in the waters of the lake. Hazratbal's special significance is derived from the fact that it houses a hair of the prophet Muhammad. This is displayed to the public on religious occasions, usually accompanied by fairs. Apart from these occasions, Friday prayers are offered at Hazratbal and attended by throngs of people. Hazratbal is remarkable for being the only domed mosque in Srinagar; the others having distinct pagoda like roofs. The shrine – mosque complex is situated on the western shore of the Dal Lake opposite Nishat Bagh and commands a grand view of the lake and the mountain beyond

Jama MasjidJama Masjid - The Jama Masjid at Nowhatta, in the heart of the old city, is the other important mosque in Srinagar at which thousands of people congregate for the Friday prayers. This exceptionally beautiful Mosque is built of wood and has about 327 wooden pillars, with some more than 40 feet in height. Each of these pillars has been made from the trunk of a single Deodar tree. The spires and domes represent the pinnacle of Kashmiri architecture. This mosque has been burnt down thrice, but each time it has risen from the ashes more magnificent than before. The present mosque is credited to Aurangzeb, who reconstructed it around 1665.

Adi Shankaracharya Temple - This is one of the oldest landmarks near Srinagar. It is situated right behind the Boulevard, 1000 ft above the city of Srinagar on the Shankaracharya hill. The oldest temple is said to be constructed around 2629-2564 B.C.   King Gopaditya constructed the present temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The Muslims call this hill, 'Takht- I- Sulaiman' or the “Throne of Solomon". A modern ceiling covers the inner sanctum and an inscription in Persian traces its origin to the reign of Emperor Shah Jehan. The original ceiling was dome- shaped and the brick roof, it appears, is not more than a century old.This temple stands as witness to the resurgent spirit of the Hindu religion, which despite persecution by the Muslims, managed to survive and flourish. The temple offers a breathtaking view of the valley below, the Dal Lake and the Moghul Gardens.

Amarnath - Amarnath is 145 km east of Srinagar in Kashmir and is considered to be one of the major Hindu Dhams. There is an ice Siva-linga here that changes size with the seasons, and also as the moon waxes and wanes it becomes bigger and smaller. On the full moon day the linga is about 6 ft high. Each year on the full moon day of July-August (Sravana) when the Siva-linga attains its maximum height there is a festival at this cave temple. It is said that Lord Siva first appeared on this day. More>>>

Kheer Bhawani/ Tulmul - This is the most important shrine of the Kashmiri Brahmans and is held in great reverence by them. The temple-spring complex is affectionately known as Kheer Bhawani because of the thousands of devotees who offer milk and 'kheer' to the sacred spring. According to legend this spring water changes colour whenever any calamity befalls the state of Kashmir. In the months of June and July, festivals are organized on ASHTMIS (8TH day according to the Indian Calendar), and Hindus from the world over converge on this shrine to offer prayers, sing Vedic hyms and do Havans (prayers around a spiritual fire).

VALLEYS

Lidder Valley

Inarguably the best of the Kashmir valleys, this valley resembles Scotland in many aspects. Lidder valley is full of lush meadows, glaciers and snow-covered peaks stretching over 40 miles. The valley starts at Kolahoi glacier and includes the well known places like the Amarnath cave, Pahalgam etc. The whole valley is breathtaking and draws visitors to its magical beauty. It is also very important from the trekkers’ point of view.

Sindh Valley

The largest tributary of the Kashmir valley, Sindh sports beautiful scenery with diversified features. The valley is also the chief trade route between Kashmir and Central Asia. The Sindh valley begins at Gandherbal and ends near Baltal at the base of the Zojila Pass

Lolab Valley

Lolab valley has its own charm and is an eyecatching, small, compact region. It has green rice fields, fruit orchards and beautiful meadows. The valley is about 16 miles long and 3 miles broad, and lies about 50 miles off north of Sopore.

This valley is the fruit bowl of Kashmir and produces most of the exotic and famous fruits of Kashmir. There are good camp sites all along the way from Patalnag, Kambrial, Magmarg to Drass. It is advisable to visit the valley before July or after August, as it becomes quite hot during this time. There are well laid out routes along the valley to facilitate the trekkers.

Wangat Valley

This is a small valley, no more than 6 miles from end to end. It has some spectacular sights, and stands out on its own among the valleys of Kashmir.

SHOPPING

From the amusing trinket to a collector's item, you'll find it all in Srinagar. Row upon row of shops filled with handicrafts line the streets. Kashmiri handicrafts are prized everywhere for their exquisite craftsmanship. Kashmir carpets, in both wool and silk with their Persian design, are a lifetime investment and the shoppers’ selection range from the simple to the most extraordinarily intricate patterns handed down the generations. Then there are papier-mâché items ranging from jewellery boxes to mirror frames, a range of intricately carved walnut wood furniture and accessories, stone jewellery boxes, beautiful woollen shawls, crewel embroidery on furnishing material sold by the meter and more.